What does sandalwood do?

While Indian sandalwood (different to Australian, Hawaiian, New Caledonian, and other sandalwood species) is a revered ingredient in traditional medicine and fine fragrance, it’s only recently that science has begun to unearth how its properties can benefit contemporary beauty and wellbeing.

In this article we break down the many benefits and uses of sandalwood. Drawing on ancient wisdom and modern science, we’ll help you understand how to work this powerful natural botanical into your own wellbeing rituals.

1. Calms Inflammation and Soothes Irritated Skin

Indian sandalwood is naturally rich in α-santalol, a sesquiterpene compound known for its powerful anti-inflammatory properties. It works by blocking NF-κB, a protein complex that triggers the body’s inflammatory response. A 2021 study found that sandalwood significantly reduced inflammation by shutting down this pathway, helping to ease redness, swelling, and irritation.

This makes it especially helpful for sensitive or reactive skin types, and for managing conditions such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Unlike synthetic anti-inflammatories, sandalwood is gentle, calming, and non-disruptive to the skin barrier. This makes it ideal for daily use, even on compromised skin. 

For a gentle, everyday way to calm the skin, smooth a few drops of Indian sandalwood face oil into freshly cleansed skin each morning.

2. Prevents signs of premature ageing with greater antioxidant activity than Vitamin E 

Free radical exposure from sunlight, pollution, and blue light accelerates ageing and disrupts healthy skin function. These unstable molecules weaken cell membranes, degrade collagen, and contribute to fine lines, dullness, and discolouration.

Indian sandalwood is naturally rich in antioxidants, including the sesquiterpene α-santalol, which helps neutralise free radicals before they cause lasting damage. In studies, sandalwood outperformed vitamin E in protecting skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental aggressors.

It also works to reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. This dual action helps fade dark spots and even out skin tone while supporting long-term skin resilience and radiance.

3. A Natural Aphrodisiac 

With its distinctive combination of spicy, sweet, warm and velvety tones, it’s no wonder sandalwood has excited generations of lovers.

The secret behind sandalwood’s sex appeal is most likely because it smells similar to the pheromone androsterone, which is why sandalwood can awaken your sexual desires.

Another possibility is its long association with sex and sensuality.

A 2000 year old poem by the Indian poet Kalidasa describes a scene where lovers entwined grow wild with passion, intoxicated by the scent of sandalwood.

If you’d like to test out the power of sandalwood for yourself, add a few drops of sandalwood oil to your bath before slipping into bed. This will leave a subtle yet lingering scent of sandalwood on your skin. 

If you have a diffuser, sandalwood oil is perfect to spice the air and create a sensual atmosphere. 

Sandalwood oil blended with a carrier oil such as jojoba or sweet almond makes for a beautiful massage oil or perfume. Because Indian sandalwood oil has the slowest evaporation rate of all essential oils, it will linger on the skin.

4. Shrinks Pores + Fine Lines

The astringent effect of sandalwood oil likely stems from its ability to interact with proteins in the skin, leading to a tightening effect. The bioactive compounds in sandalwood oil also help to improve overall skin texture, contributing to the appearance of smaller pores and reduced fine lines.

5. Reduces Breakouts and Acne-Causing Bacteria

Indian sandalwood has natural antiseptic and antibacterial properties that make it a natural partner for blemish-prone skin. Its key compounds help stop the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria that causes inflammatory acne) by disrupting the bacterial wall and preventing biofilm formation. This results in fewer breakouts, faster recovery, and calmer skin overall.

Simultaneously, Indian sandalwood works to rebalance sebum production and ease the inflammation that frequently accompanies congested pores. Whilst still effective for spot treatment, this is long-term support for a clearer, more resilient skin barrier.

Indian sandalwood is naturally non-comedogenic, meaning it will not clog pores or cause congestion. It is free from common irritants such as synthetic fragrance and preservatives, making it a reliable option for skin that is dry, oily, reactive, or prone to flare-ups.

Its biocompatibility allows it to work in harmony with the skin’s natural barrier and microbiome. This makes sandalwood an effective and gentle choice for a wide range of skin types, delivering visible results without causing disruption or imbalance.

For daily clarity, massage a few drops of Clear-Up Face Oil into clean skin to help prevent breakouts before they start or use as a spot treatment for a targeted approach.

6. Strengthens the Skin Barrier

The skin barrier acts as the skin’s natural defence system, helping to keep moisture in and external irritants out. When this barrier becomes weakened, skin can feel dry, tight, and reactive.

Indian sandalwood helps support and restore the integrity of the barrier by reinforcing the skin’s natural lipid structure. It also reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), helping the skin retain hydration and maintain balance. With regular use, it leaves the skin feeling smoother, more comfortable, and better equipped to recover from daily stress.

7. Preserves skin elasticity and improves skin cell turnover 

Ageing skin often shows up as fine lines, sagging, and uneven tone. A key factor behind this is the gradual breakdown of collagen, which can be triggered by chronic low-level inflammation and oxidative stress.

Indian sandalwood helps protect the skin’s structure by reducing levels of collagenase (MMP-1), the enzyme responsible for breaking down collagen. It also supports healthy skin renewal, helping to refine texture, brighten tone, and maintain elasticity over time. Unlike stronger actives, it does all of this gently, without disrupting the skin’s natural balance.

When tested on human skin at low concentrations, Indian sandalwood oil has been proven to help eliminate damaged skin cells, preventing them from turning into pre-cancerous spots like actinic keratosis. By killing off old and damaged skin cells, Indian sandalwood oil allows for the regeneration of new, healthy skin cells, resulting in younger and brighter looking skin.

Recent studies have revealed that Indian sandalwood oil can halt the growth of skin cells and reduce the harmful effects of UV exposure, both key factors in preventing skin cancer. Unlike many other protective agents, Indian sandalwood oil works without disrupting essential cellular processes, making it a gentle yet effective option for skin health.

8. Stimulates Hair Growth 

It might sound surprising, but hair follicles contain scent receptors. One of these is called OR2AT4, which responds to α-santalol, the active compound found in Indian sandalwood. When this receptor is activated, it signals the follicle to stay in the growth phase for longer and to increase keratin production.

Scientific research now supports the ability of Indian sandalwood oil to directly influence hair growth and scalp health. A 16-week study demonstrated that topical application of Indian sandalwood oil led to significant increases in hair follicle number, depth, and dermal thickness compared to control groups, highlighting its potential to enhance hair follicle morphology and promote healthier hair growth. 

From a sensory perspective, when inhaled, synthetic Indian sandalwood odorants have been shown to prolong the anagen (growth) phase of hair follicles and increase keratin production. We recommend incorporating the Royal Oil for Body + Hair into daily scalp massages, or using it as an intensive hair mask treatment, to experience the bountiful benefits of Indian sandalwood for hair and scalp health,

9. Supports Restful, Deep Sleep

The scent of Indian sandalwood does more than create a sense of calm. Research shows that inhaling sandalwood can influence brainwave activity, increasing both alpha and theta waves. These are the states linked to relaxation, rest, and the transition into sleep.

In clinical sleep studies, participants exposed to sandalwood experienced longer periods of deep sleep and fewer disturbances throughout the night. These effects are thought to occur through the limbic system, the part of the brain that regulates emotion and nervous system responses. This makes sandalwood an effective, natural addition to evening rituals that support better rest.

Find out if sandalwood oil will help you sleep by adding a few drops to your diffuser before bed and let its luxurious scent transport you to a deep sleep.

10. Uplifts Mood and Promotes Focus 

The calming effects of Indian sandalwood extend beyond sleep. When inhaled, its scent interacts with the brain’s limbic system, particularly the hypothalamus and amygdala, which are involved in emotional processing and stress response.

This interaction has been shown to help reduce levels of cortisol, the body’s main stress hormone, while supporting a sense of calm focus. In clinical settings, Indian sandalwood has been linked to lower anxiety, a more relaxed heart rate, and improved mental clarity. It is a grounding presence in moments of tension, whether preparing for a busy day or winding down in the evening.

For a sense of alertness throughout the day, try burning Indian sandalwood incense while you work, or use a sandalwood essential oil blend in your diffuser.